Theth in the valley of the Shala river has always been an isolated village in the Malësia e Madhe (= “Big Mountains”) in far northern Albania. In winter it is almost inaccessible when heavy snows close the road from Shkodra to Theth. A three hour rough and bumpy ride from the village of Bogë, over the Buni i Thorës pass, offers spectacular views of the snowcapped mountains. The short tourist season is from June to September, when the road is open. There are small hotels or homestays, overlooking the Shala valley and in Theth itself.
About 10 kilometres south of Theth, along a rough but spectacular road hugging the slopes above the Shala river, is the tiny village of Lelys where life seems to have been unchanged for centuries. It is truly one of Europe’s most remote areas where the age-old traditions of the Kanun of Dukagjin still survive, with its great hospitality to visitors. However, there are signs the region is losing inhabitants: there are abandoned houses, falling in disrepair. It is a great pity as the style of the houses is typical of the area. From Lelys an hour walk through the glorious mountain landscape leads to the “Syri i kaltër”, literally “Blue Eye”, a small crystal clear pool with icy cold water and a waterfall.